Walking Bukhan Mountain Fortress: A Tour of Reflection and Resilience
Creatrip Team
2 months ago
Journalist walks the 13-gate circuit of Bukhan Mountain Fortress (북한산성) — a 16.7 km, 9-hour hike from Guppabal to Wonyo Peak and back — in bitter cold. The fortress, built in 1711 after the traumatic Imjin and Byeongja wars, was designed so the king could ‘defend with the people’ (欲與民共守), avoiding earlier failures when monarchs fled. The wall links granite peaks into a natural stronghold with six main gates, seven small hidden ‘ammun’ (暗門) used for emergency resupply and relief, and over 100 wells and ponds for water. The fortress was quickly built in six months using Buddhist warrior-monks (승병) who also garrisoned it; 13 temple-barracks were established. The hike offers steep rock climbs, panoramic views of Seoul and even glimpses of North Korea, and has become a popular “K-hiking” tourist draw, attracting foreign hikers who share meals on the trail. After descending, the writer recommends warming up with local spicy squid and rice (오삼불고기 and fried-rice) near Yeonsinnae station.
