CreatripTeam

Chef Jeon Ho-je describes the delicate work behind extracting deep umami from Korean mudflat (gaetbeol) shellfish, especially local clams (bajirak). He explains how careful selection removes spoiled “pearl” clams that can ruin a broth, and why bajirak give a clean, distinctive flavor that other shellfish can’t fully replace. Visiting Suncheon Bay’s black mudflats, the chef finds the mud fresh and alive with creatures like mud crabs (chilge) and gobies; he recounts harvesting methods, the physical challenge of moving on the flats, and local practices of cleaning and preparing clams. The article notes declining domestic bajirak harvests—from 84,000 tons in 1989 to about 2,000 tons in 2024—leading sometimes to use of imported clams. Chilge (a small mudflat crab) remain more abundant and are eaten whole, fried, or made into seasoned crab paste (chilgejang) used as a savory condiment with rice or grilled pork. With colder weather, the chef suggests seeking out clam noodle soup to enjoy the comforting, clean seafood broth as a taste of Korea’s tidal flats.